The power needed to move your car increases with the speed cube. Be careful with the accelerator pedal. The best way is to slow down. Imagine there's an egg between your foot and the accelerator.
All I did was step on the accelerator a little more gently. I had no problem keeping up with traffic. How can I tell if my car does this? How to modem? I always use neutral. Check your tire pressure from time to time, make sure it never goes down, keep a light load.
Eliminate anything unnecessary, do everything you can to keep your revs low, even if that means getting stuck driving slowly. A small engine manual car is probably the best thing you could use to deliver. Gasoline starts to spoil after 30 days, although this can be extended to six months with the fuel stabilizer. Gas can be used for a couple of years, but it can create problems with engines.
I saw a video a while ago where a guy started a three-year-old gasoline car and a five-year-old gasoline generator. This is the culmination of thermodynamics, engines and heat pumps, aerodynamics and mechanical design. You don't need a seven-seater seat if you're only transported to work and to the supermarket 99% of the time. Look in the manual or online for the torque and power curves of the car.
It's good to know what the optimal speeds and gear settings are. Buy fuel only in cold climates (minimize evaporation losses, also taking into account thermal expansion). Possibility of overflow as fuel heats up and energy from reflux is wasted during pumping. Don't make trips just for fuel.
Fill up after buying, or on the way somewhere. Don't run with a cold engine to warm it up. Engines heat up faster under a light load on the road. This ensures that the catalytic converter starts operating sooner.
Avoid rapid acceleration and driving on the road before the engine and oil heat up. This reduces wear and tear and associated energy losses. The warm-up period uses fuel at a speed up to 50% faster than when driving. Try to run all of the day's travel errands during the same part of the day.
Before a catalyst is hot, emissions are poor and pollute the environment. air conditioning becomes preferential only at high speeds, but even then it costs several percent in fuel use. At low speeds, it costs up to 10%. Want to be comfortable, not cold in your vehicle on a 40°C (104°F) day.
That strong temperature gradient you created costs you money. Clean your trunk of everything that is not essential. Don't wear seasonal equipment (snow chains, de-icing equipment) all year round. Keep tires inflated at the recommended maximum pressure.
Underinflated tires could cost you an additional 5 or 6% fuel consumption. Check tire pressure in cold weather and regularly (at least once a month). Otherwise, rolling resistance and uneven tire wear increase energy losses. Forget about your sports and aftermarket intake turbo.
Who cares if you have a K%26N air filter? Cars are designed for a stoichiometric mixture of air and fuel. Deviating from that means unburned products. Don't store roof bars in your car when you don't need them. Transport things inside the car when possible.
It removes all the snow from the car, it also adds significant mass and percentage points to your fuel consumption. Avoid quick starts and sudden stops (saves fuel, reduces wear and tear). Acceleration should be smooth and gradual. It's much better, and faster, to slow down immediately when you see a light ahead, so you can drive past the light with as much retained momentum as possible.
It's very rare that I stop at traffic lights. I usually move on quickly, overtaking the guys next to me who were in a hurry to stop. Avoid going behind during unpredictable driving (on the road). Don't be part of the domino effect of braking and accelerating.
Try never to stop your car. Static friction is greater than kinetic friction and wants to avoid unnecessary acceleration and low-speed driving. Avoid resting your foot on the clutch or breaking. Lower clutch pressure means a noticeable increase in clutch wear.
Use the highest gear as soon as the speed is high enough. This means lower engine speed, lower fuel requirements and less wear and tear. Properly lubricate all moving parts that you don't want to waste energy. Replace all filters during maintenance.
Clogged air filters mean less efficient combustion. Clogged pollen filters mean additional energy loss. And the best way to reduce fuel consumption (up to double what you've saved by following the steps above) is to not use a car at all. Go public, walk or bike when you can.
I spent too much time writing this. I have an acquaintance who likes to race as fast as possible to cars that stop in front of her at a red light or in traffic and then braking hard, it makes me go freaking crazy in my mind when you can just roll slowly to an obvious stop, seriously, it has caused problems with my mind. I see people do this all the time. Then I chuckle silently as I slowly move towards the traffic light in the other lane, and then I pass them because it took me longer to get to the traffic light and didn't have to stop moving before it turned green.
I hope you will face them at all times. They endanger everyone around them, cause stress and waste energy. If I were a cop and saw him, I would arrest them for reckless driving and confiscate the car. Are you trying to find traffic and make an effort to go behind? My car gives me a reading of my current fuel efficiency, and I've noticed that even at highway speeds I get better fuel efficiency with the windows partly lowered than with the air conditioner turned on (although it never occurred to me to do recirculation, maybe that would make it work better).
I guess it depends on the car. I've also noticed that unless I'm driving in a place with no slopes or slopes (almost never for me), it's best to try to keep the pedal in a constant position if possible, rather than using cruise control. Cruise control makes the car work harder when climbing hills to maintain speed instead of allowing it to accelerate and slow down slightly with hills. Now, obviously, if you are going to go up or down a big hill, you should adjust the pedal position accordingly so as not to go too fast or slow, but it's generally best to keep the pedal in a constant position whenever possible.
I have noticed that even at highway speeds, I get better fuel efficiency with the windows partly lowered than with the air conditioner turned on. I think what OP was referring to is that the air conditioner is going to be more efficient at higher speeds, but the air conditioner will always use more fuel compared to not using it at all. Once you turn on the AC, the motor has to turn the AC pump, which slightly reduces the available power. Plus, if you're lucky and the crosswalk signs are automatic and have a countdown timer, you can even tell when the traffic light is about to turn yellow, giving you even more time to lower the accelerator.
Your edition, completely agree, and I always do this if there are no cars behind me. It also makes me think about integrals and derivatives of speed every time I do this. I used to live in the cold. You still heat it up, but do it while driving slowly.
If the engine is running, why not use it? If your car already has one, use it. If you don't, something like a ScanGauge II is cheap and takes literally seconds to install (if your car is too old to have an OBDII port, the best thing you can do to improve your fuel economy is to buy a newer car). Real-time feedback will show you what works and what doesn't. Over time, you'll also notice other things that affect your fuel economy (my car burns about twice as much gasoline when idling while warming up).
One thing I've seen hypermilers do is create a warm air intake to get a less dense air load, which, consequently, will need less fuel to burn. Of course, this also reduces the power. I'd probably look for hybrids that also run on gasoline, so that when you find gasoline, you can use it instead. Therefore, it is not that the gas spoils, but that the water is absorbed at the inlet and into the fuel system.
Natural gas will continue to be useful and will last basically indefinitely, and it is likely to be stored quite a lot in several places. Cars get lower fuel consumption in lower gears, and accelerating too slowly can cause your car to fail to turn up efficiently. However, older cruise control systems only use reactive measures to maintain speed, so going uphill will force cruise control to use more gasoline than necessary. It saves gas in the long run, especially when combined with the more efficient speed of approximately 55 mph.
If you regularly use the same gas station or could, see if they have points programs to reduce part of the expense. Therefore, it reduces the RISK of potentially damaging some components of your engine when using “old gasoline”. In fact, the weight of the wheels affects your gasoline consumption, but you shouldn't spoil the suspension unless you're a professional. Brushed DC motors are (generally) more efficient at low speeds and for traffic and it's best to switch to gasoline when you're on the road.
What happens is that water condensation forms inside the tank, then drips into the gas and settles on the bottom, since the water is heavier than the fuel. You'll get a little more for your money, as gas is a little denser when it's cold, plus gas stations increase their prices for the week of Thursday. . .
